We master simple techniques of dyeing and decorating a lacquered table
This master class I prepared specifically for beginners in the "paint job". It seems like something especially difficult here - he took and painted the table, the chair, the door ... But suddenly it turns out that the paint that others paint successfully rolls off the surface or covers only the fifth and seventh layers, the brushes fall apart, and in general everything went somehow wrong. I myself observed quite a lot of such situations, and even more questions about the materials and the technique of staining are asked in personal correspondence. So the idea was born to create a series of photo and video instructions for painting various surfaces.
I decided to start with a relatively small piece of furniture - lacquered table. I myself had a table at the country house for several years and waited in the wings - it was covered with colored varnish, the tabletop was covered with polished veneer.
I decided to repaint this table in creamy cream shades. We will decorate it with lace cut from a PVC thermo-napkin.
But first I will markTHREE WHALESPerfect painting of furniture:
1. Surface preparation (!!!) This is the most important step, although often the most tedious. But if you do not prepare the furniture for painting properly, any, even the best paint will not stick. In addition, dirty, greasy marks may appear on an already painted surface. Therefore, first thoroughly wash the surface with a sponge and detergent. If the surface is heavily contaminated, you can use the "Anti-fat" or wipe with acetone. If the surface is very old and dirty and does not wash, then you can use a special primer.
Now proceed to grinding. It is not necessary to completely remove the top layer of paint, since we will paint with a special paint for repainting furniture. You just need to mate the glossy surfaces, even out the roughness, the drips of old paint. It is best to use sandpaper number 150-200. After grinding, wipe the surface with a damp cloth, remove the dust.
2.Paint.The paint should be opaque, safe for health (!) And convenient to use. Each master uses his favorite paint, and praises its manufacturer. Many at the Fair of Masters love to paint furniture with acrylics and enamels. I personally am not thrilled with them, perhaps because I live in a small town, and we have a poor selection of high-quality paints. Therefore, I order all the necessary components from good suppliers and prepare the paint myself, in accordance with my requirements. It does not require pre-priming of the surface, it lays down in a dense and even layer, covers 2-3 layers, remarkably keeps on the surface and in some cases does not need a finishing coating. The paint should be convenient and practical to use, so let's not make life difficult for us 🙂 But in fact, you can paint anything at all, it is important to know how (masters of acrylic, latex, alkyd and chalk paints - I respect everyone and always use them).
3. Brushes.The ideal brush should be dense, thick, soft. It’s hard to find such perfect brushes here, so I use Matrix brushes with mixed bristles and artistic brushes from the Neva palette. They practically do not leave marks on the painted surface.But I really like good tools, so I’m always looking for the best brushes.It is very important to remember (!!!) after you have finished painting and decorative work, you should rinse the brush thoroughly with water.. If the brush dries, then you will be left without a tool, and good brushes are not cheap now.
1. If you are painting at home, do not forget to lay paper on the floor so that it does not get dirty. In order not to spoil your hands, it is best to wear gloves. Although I, frankly, I can not work in gloves, so after work I use special creams to remove paint and a brush for hands.
2. Apply the first layer of velvet paint - it will be primer. We simultaneously level the surface, improve adhesion and evaluate surface defects that we overlooked during the preliminary preparation. I apply the first layer with a construction bristle brush (flute) with mixed bristles. We brush the brush in warm water and squeeze it well with a paper towel so that it is slightly moist. Paint type a little at the tip of the brush. Construction fleytsy enough dense and dense, the paint on them is well typed.For the primer layer, they are perfect, but the second layer of paint is better to apply artistic broad brush, then there will be almost no traces.
I usually start working from the bottom of the table, leaving the tabletop for last. After all, we still have to paint the "purl" part of the table (do not forget about the "inside"!). It is not very beautiful and not professional when they paint only the visible parts of the furniture, thinking at the same time: “Ay, who will look from below ...” They will become, as luck would have it. Therefore, having painted the “visible” part of the table, turn it over, put it on the tabletop and paint everything that is “not visible”. Apply the paint along the wood fibers and stretch along the surface.
Give the first layer how to dry. As you can see in the photo, the coating is already dense enough, but one more layer of paint will be needed. When the primer dries, you will immediately see all the remaining surface defects. All knots and potholes that are not provided for in the style in which you will decorate the table should be puttied with putty on wood. On the primed surface, this is more convenient. Deep cracks and chips can be puttied with a mixture of acrylic putty and small sawdust (they can be replaced with chopped toilet paper).
3When the putty has dried, grind the surface and level it with sandpaper. You can use a grinder. After sanding, wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove dust, then dry.
4. Apply a second coat of paint along the fibers. This is the finishing layer, and I apply it with an artistic brush. Stretch the paint over the surface with very light movements. Then the layer will be very smooth and smooth. Level the surface with a sanding sponge or fine sandpaper.
5. We finished painting the main part of the table. We now turn to decorating the tabletop. I took a fairly simple and affordable option, which even for beginners is very acceptable. We take PVC thermo-wipes (you can buy them at any hardware store) and cut out lace elements from them. They cost much less than real lace, but you can use what you have at home.
Carefully we clean the surface with sandpaper in the places where the lace will be glued, degrease all the elements and the surface with alcohol. I was afraid to use acetone, suddenly the lace will dissolve. So much hard work to the cat under the tail.We assemble the pattern and glue it on Moment-Crystal glue.
Now we paint a tabletop. First, paint the lace with a drive-in motion. Better use a small art synthetic brush. Then we take a larger, more flat synthetic art brush (No. 22-24) and lightly paint the entire worktop along the surface. Apply the same two layers of paint. To make the surface smoother, after applying the paint with a brush, you can immediately roll the velor roller in opposite directions. Grind the surface with a soft sponge or emery paper number 1000 (it is sold in car shops).
Now you need a day to dry the table to continue the decoration.
6. Aging (washing and sanding the ribs). To make the table more expressive, we will do the washing in a lighter tone (I have Cream). To do this, you need to put paint in a small container and dilute it with water to a liquid state.
Now we apply liquid paint to the surface with a sponge so that it flows into the grooves and immediately erase the excess with a soft cotton cloth. We drive paint into the lace with the help of a synthetic brush.The surface turns out as if powdered.
After washing, you can go sandpaper on all the reliefs to emphasize them.
7. Finishing coating. It can be made wax. Apply wax on the entire surface with a brush or cotton cloth. Dry for 1-2 days and rub with felt or felt fabric. It turns out to be very pleasant to the touch, a noble surface, but keep in mind that the wax hardens for a very long time (at least a month), and if you use furniture during this time, it is always possible to damage the coating.
Since I have a small and very active daughter, I decided not to take risks and covered the table with acrylic urethane varnish (Poly-R), it dries quickly and forms a firm covering.
We put the varnish on the very tip of the brush and with light movements (as if a fan) stretch the varnish all over the surface along the fibers of the wood.
After the first layer of the varnish has dried, it is necessary to sand it with sandpaper № 1000 or a grinding sponge.
When applying each subsequent layer of varnish the surface is well dried and also polished. I applied 3 coats of varnish. I finish the finish with metal wool number 0 and 000.It does not leave scratches on the surface and polishes it well.
Here's what happened in the end:
So, knowing some paint-decorative subtleties, one can quickly, simply and economically (only 200 ml of paint) transform the old table. Adjusted for noisy children and itchy mosquitoes, it took me 4 days to repaint.
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